Renata’s Hearth: Latin America Meets the Southwest

by Mike Hunter

Renata’s Hearth InteriorNo, it’s not open for lunch, so really Renata’s Hearth is not a “Power Lunch” location. But it is a powerful experience.

The Biltmore’s storied Frank Lloyd Wright architecture provides a dramatic setting, with the dining room furnished in aged leather and woven textures and brightened by colorfully rendered portraits that punctuate a few of the dividing walls. Opened in May, the restaurant (and its outdoor Spire Bar) has its own valet and corridor entry separate from the resort’s entrance — part of the resort’s renovation that now allows guests to begin their restaurant experience with a short stroll through landscaped grounds.

Translating ancient Latin recipes into the modern era, Renata’s Hearth connects authentic Southwest ingredients with Old World preparations in an array of intriguing Central and South American-inspired flavors. Chef Jesus Figueroa Ortega designed a menu that honors his Hispanic heritage, creating a range of seafood and hearty meat dishes balanced with the distinct aura of smoke and char. 

There is an undeniable “wow” factor to the exotic presentations, starting with the signature tequila cocktail Los Muertos. Made with serrano-infused El Tosorro Reposado, it is served in a black salt-encrusted glass and swirled in smoke – which wafts delicately away as the waiter lifts off the glass display cloche. 

Varied appetizer selections include Charred Spanish Octopus a la Veracruz, made with spicy potatoes, tomato, olives and onion; Argentinian Red Shrimp Ceviche, flavored with smoked paprika; and a unique version of chimichangas with smoked chicken, mole negro and charred corn blended inside a crispy tortilla and served as bites on a bed of black beans tastily seasoned. A seasonal offering is the Grilled Spanish Watermelon Salad, a light choice that is at the same time perhaps unexpectedly satisfying with pieces of ripe watermelon, baby arugula and queso fresco dressed in a sherry vinaigrette.

Renata’s Hearth Mezcal Maven Haven Cart

Preparation for the entrées emphasizes charring and smoking. Bounty of the Garden is an assortment of grilled and/or charred vegetables with a sprinkling of cotija cheese. A smoked ham hock is the central ingredient in Renata’s Pozole Blanco, surrounded by chicharrones along with hominy, radish and avocado. Roasted Chilean Seabass is served with Peruvian rice, pickled Fresno peppers and a mole verde whose creaminess and flavors of chiles and cilantro complement the char finish on the seabass. And for steak lovers, the 10-ounce Wagyu Steak is an almost impossibly tender New York cut to which salsa verde and avocado add a Latin American flavor.

Entrée choices also include some intended for the dinner group to share, such Mesquite-Smoked Whole Jidori Chicken and Mole Negro-Rubbed Smoked Wagyu Brisket. 

Guests can enjoy tableside preparations from a craft cocktail cart as well as a fresh guacamole and Spanish charcuterie cart. 

And the char-style extends all the way to the desserts with the Charred Pineapple Crème Caramel, which shares the “Sweet & Smoky Conclusion” menu with Renata’s Churros and Abuelita Chocolate Mousse.  

Renata’s Hearth
at the Arizona Biltmore, A Waldorf Astoria Resort
2400 E. Missouri Ave., Phoenix
(602) 955-6600

 

Kumiai Oysters

Kumiai Oysters
Served on the half shell with Jalapeño aguachile and watermelon radish
$22

Los Muertos Cocktail

Los Muertos
Serrano-infused El Tosorro Reposado, activated charcoal, agave, lime juice, black lava salt, smoke
$18

44oz Oaxaca Spiced Wagyu Tomahawk Steak

44-oz Oaxaca-Spiced Wagyu Tomahawk Steak
Served with warm tortillas and verde, roja and mango-pineapple salsas
$155

Did You Know: The Arizona Biltmore’s architect of record is Albert Chase McArthur (whose brothers owned the hotel), yet the design is often mistakenly attributed to Frank Lloyd Wright, for whom McArthur had been a draftsman. This is due to Wright’s on-site consulting for four months in 1928 relating to the “Textile Block” construction used in the hotel and which has been a signature element of the hotel’s appearance.

Photos courtesy of Renata’s Hearth

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