Photos by RDKA Media, Tim Chow, courtesy of HL Concepts
Elevated. Indeed, some — on entering Jin Jia’s dining room — might call it fine dining. But the owners “wanted to make the experience accessible,” according to Andrew Nam, director of operations for parent company HL Concepts. Simplicity of décor effects a striking elegance, with white and lustrous black set off by accents of red. Dim ambient lighting makes the room’s large open space seem more intimate. Alcoves rim one side of the main dining room, with sheer curtains that bespeak privacy without breaking the warmly welcoming open feeling.
The food is as memorable as the ambience, as Hyunwook Lee, executive chef and founder of HL Concepts, applies his concept of “accessible” to the dishes. No generic, muddied sauces. Flavors are clear, sharp, fresh, and serve to accent — and elevate — each dish’s primary ingredients.
Coming from a history of intertwined Korean and Chinese cultures, the Korean influence results in flavors presenting bolder and spicier than the more familiar Chinese cuisine. With the Sweet & Sour Chicken, for instance, the flavors are strong but completely complementary, with no one flavor dominating over others. Crisp bites of chicken combine with textures of carrots, cucumbers and almost paper-thin mushrooms in a tangy sweet and sour that’s more glaze than heavy sauce.
With a woodier flavor, the Mongolian Chicken celebrates its garlic without succumbing to it. Oyster mushrooms add their distinction to the stir-fried dish with Korean leeks and black pepper soy sauce.
These are two of the entrées Jin Jia offers on its special weekday lunch menu — healthy-sized servings of one entrée and one side dish for $20. Side dish choices include Seaweed Cucumber Salad, with pepper flakes adding a bite to the taste; and Jja-Jang Noodle, Korean-Chinese stir-fried dish of soft noodles with black beans, beef, fried potatoes and onion.
Everything is made to order, with the chef sometimes adding a surprise seasonal touch like the strawberries I found in my Sweet & Sour Chicken. To-the-table time suits a busy business day, while the ambience invites guests to sit back and relax.
Jin Jia
Desert Ridge Marketplace
21001 N. Tatum Blvd., Phoenix
(480) 878-0411
Prawn Toast “Menbosha” Minced prawn in crispy bread with lemon cream $15
|
Sweet & Sour Beef Korean-Chinese “Tang-Su-Yuk” crispy beef with vegetables in a tangy glaze $24
|
Lobster Fried Rice Chef’s special wok-fired rice with lobster tail $39 |
